Skip to main content
site map
HomeBeeJay & BorDoodlesCavaliersSweatersKittiesContact
 Training Tips .. ..from Wall 2 Wall Border Collies 
please check back for updates   :) 



"Socializing"  isn't just about showing new things to a puppy. We need to take care of what the puppy is feeling in the moment, making sure that he or she can "win" in the challenge presented and ends up with a positive feeling about the new encounter." Busy skate parks are a great place to expose your pups to the erratic noises of skateboarders and loud kids.


Walk the perimeter of the park at a distance on a short lead. Use words of positive reinforcement and circle closer, stopping at times when needed. With enough exposure, your dog will become at ease and more curious than skittish at loud and unexpected noises.
Takes time, do it early and often. Pays in the long run for a calmer dog, particularly with BCs.


In the early days walk your pup in a place where you can see incoming dog traffic from afar . Try to assess the demeanour of every dog from a distance . Only put in front of your puppy those you estimate to be stable . As time goes on and you become more assured of your pups confidence you can allow them to meet the other dogs.                                Control everything.


Keeping track of puppy:  Accidents happen, leashes break, people open gates or pups slip out the door when someone comes in or out.... there are things that can put our pup in danger... being lost.... I would like to suggest you look into something like this for your pup to track him or her quickly in the even that he or she disappears from sight and can not be immediately located.
Locate your pup  
​The microchip in your pup is only a unique identifier used to register which is tamper-proof.
​It is a good idea to put a collar tag with your phone number and his/her name on your pups collar and have a collar on at all times in the event that you need to be able to safely restrain him or her (better to grab a collar than trying to hang on to a dog by the hair!)  There are many different styles and offers from companies online.


This Is What Really Happens When Your Dog Licks Your Face  

From BarkPost Writer  Tori Holmes


     Have you ever been told that a dog’s mouth is cleaner than a human’s? This is the perfect example of don’t believe everything you hear. Not surprisingly, both canine and human mouths contain bacteria, and lots of it. Though what’s interesting is that comparing one to the other is like comparing apples to oranges. They’re both mouths, but the mouths of a human and dog are totally different environments with completely different bacteria.         
     Only 16% of the bacteria in a dog’s mouth overlap directly with that in a human mouth.  Of that other 84%, some of the non-human bacteria can be harmful if it makes its way into a human 

mouth. Studies have actually shown that the transfer of bacteria from dog mouths to human mouths can cause gingivitis and periodontal disease – yuck.
​     This disease is very rare in humans, but common in dogs.  The shocking part is that of dog owners studied, 16% had Porphyromonasgulae, likely transmitted from their pooch – double yuck.   
     If you needed another reason to keep your dog away from your mouth, just keep in mind that there’s even some bacteria found in a dog’s mouth that is antibiotic resistant.   If this bacteria was spread to humans, it would be much more difficult to treat. 
     Although both dog and human mouths have antibacterial properties that can aidin the healing of cuts and sores, don’t get any ideas about having your dog lick your wounds. 
     When a dog licks a human wound, there is a chance that bacteria called Pasteurella can be spread.  Pasteurellacan be treated with anti-biotics, which is great, but it can also open the door to other more serious infections to develop.
     Despite these potential risks, an occasional face lick here and there isn’t really that bad for you. If you do choose to continue to swap saliva with your little buddy, though,  keep in mind that bacteria transmission goes both ways. As gross as it is for you, it’s just as gross for your dog!


7 Reasons Why You Should Crate Train Your Dog {Puppy}

BY: VAL CULPIN     from:

I got my first dog over thirty years ago. We always had dogs when I was growing up, but this was the first purebred of my very own after I moved out of my parent’s house. She was a golden retriever from a well-respected breeder and proved to be an education for me.

I had always thought that crates were cruel. One of the things I learned with the new pup is that crates are not cruel when used properly, and in fact can be a great tool for the average pet owner. Proper, positive crate training can provide benefits for both you and your dog.

Here are my top 7 reasons why you should crate train your dog:

1. Provide a safe space

Dogs have a natural ‘denning’ instinct and crates can provide a haven for your dog when he is feeling stressed or tired and needs some downtime. Children especially must be taught that when the dog is in his crate, whether by his own choice or by yours, that he is out of bounds for them and must be left alone.

2. Help with house training

Crates are great for house training. Dogs and puppies don’t like a soiled bed, so a properly sized crate is very useful to assist you in teaching him bladder and bowel control.

3. Household safety

Having your dog resting comfortably in his crate while you are not able to supervise him is a bonus. Maybe you are cooking dinner or working on renovations where your pup could cause safety issues just by being underfoot. Having him tucked safely away will give you peace of mind.

4. Safer travel

Car travel in a crate is far safer for both of you than having him loose in the car.

5. Easier vet visits

If your dog ever needs to stay overnight at the vet’s, he will be far less stressed when he is confined in the cage or run if he has already been crate trained.

6. Damage limitation

Have you seen those ‘dog shaming’ videos on the net, where the pet parent comes home to find his furniture in a shambles? Funny though they are, those disasters could have been avoided if the dog had been left in his crate with a bone or toy to chew on, instead of destroying the designer couch.

7. Evacuation

Finally, if you ever have to evacuate your home in case of a disaster or emergency, heaven forbid, having a crate trained dog is so much easier for all concerned. Whether you keep your dog with you, or he has to be handed over to carers, your pup will be better off in his own crate. He’ll be more relaxed with his own blankets and toys with your scent on them, than one who is unfamiliar with a crate and therefore experiences undue stress.

Misuse of crates

Crates can also be misused and have a negative influence on your dog. Here are some uses to avoid:

It is very important to remember not to use a crate as punishment for your dog. His crate should be his haven. I have often found my dogs resting in the crates of their own accord with the door wide open.

While crates can be used for teaching your dog the house rules, it is NOT okay to use the crate as a crutch because of lack of training. Your dog wants to be with YOU, not spending his life in a crate, so be diligent about your training regime early on.

Never leave your dog in his crate for too long, especially puppies who have limited bladder control. If you must crate your dog while you are at work, it is important that he gets a potty break after about four hours (less for puppies). So you can look into having a friend, neighbour or pet sitter come in and let him out to relieve himself and stretch his legs, or look into a good doggy daycare. If you are leaving him crated at home, it is absolutely essential that you make sure he gets plenty of exercise and playtime when you are around.

Common sense should be your guide when it comes to crate training. Good, positive associations will help your pup love his crate for the rest of his life.


Teach Basic Commands

One of the most important things you can do to ensure that  your dog isn’t disliked   is to teach him three basic, simple commands. The word ‘no’, expressed in a strong, no-nonsense voice, can apply to many situations where your dog may be exhibiting objectionable behaviour. The word ‘quiet’ can have similar results if your dog is causing a ruckus and disturbing the neighbours. And finally, ‘come’ should be an integral part of any dog’s training, especially if you let your dog exercise off-leash. Start your dog with these commands as soon as you get him and you should be able to handle any objectionable behaviour from him or her with relative ease.[credit: ]

6 Tips to Help You Learn How to Train Your Pet

If you've ever tried to teach your pet a command or trick, you know that training isn't always as easy as the experts on YouTube videos make it look. These six tips just may make the training process less stressful and more productive.

Keep Training Sessions Short

Long training sessions don't deliver better results and may only frustrate both of you. Schedule training sessions for five to 10 minutes at most. A few short sessions throughout the day may produce better results than one long session.

Eliminate Distractions

Find a calm, quiet area of your home to train your pet. An audience can be distracting when you first begin training. Although you may want to eventually ask other members of your household to participate in training, the one-on-one approach may be best at first.

Pay Attention to Your Pet's Signals

Just like people, pets find it hard to concentrate if they're tired, hungry or hot. If your pet seems lethargic or loses interest in training, postpone the session to another time. Your dog or cat is more likely to retain the information when well-rested and fed.

Similarly, don't start a training session if you're tired, hungry or irritable. If you're not in the mood to train, you may become impatient, which can derail the training process. Training should be a fun experience for both you and your pet.

Put Yourself in Your Pet's Paws

Puppies and kittens don't innately understand English the moment they're born. After a few weeks or months, they'll begin to associate words and gestures with actions. If you say "out" and pick up your pet's leash, he or she will eventually realize that the word means that it's time for a walk or outside playtime.

Imagine if you found yourself in a foreign country unexpectedly. You might only understand a few words of the language initially, but you would become more fluent through practice and repetition.

Although your pet may already recognize a variety of words, the words you use for training may be unfamiliar. It may take some time until your cat or dog understands exactly what you mean when you say "roll over" or "sit-stay." Some pets will make the connection in just two or three training sessions, while others may need more practice.

Offer the Tastiest Treats

Just like people, pets appreciate perks for a job well done. You may prefer a raise or bonus to a chicken- or liver-flavored snack, but your pet will be perfectly happy with a treat.

Giving your pet a treat after he or she responds to a command is an excellent way to reinforce positive behavior. The same old treats your pet receives every day won't make the same impact as flavorful treats that are only offered during training sessions. Offering a variety of tasty treats will help keep your pet motivated to learn new commands and tricks.

Teach These Commands First

Before your pet can master an Instagram-worthy trick, he or she needs to learn sit, the basic command that provides a foundation for all other commands and tricks.

Teaching sit isn't difficult. Place a treat in your hand and hold it slightly over your pet's head while giving the sit command. As your pet looks up at the treat, he or she may automatically sit. If not, gently push his or her hind end down while repeating "sit," then offer a treat. Repeat the process a few times every day.

After your pet masters sit, work on other commands, such as come, leave it and sit-stay. Sit-stay is a particularly helpful command. It can stop your furry friend from dashing out into traffic and makes grooming and veterinary visits easier.

The Art of Training a Dog Owner
Dog owner calls a trainer: Hi, my dog pulls on the leash and runs into the woods after deer if I let him off-leash.
Trainer: Okay. What's the breed?
Owner: A Siberian husky mixed with a coon hound.
Trainer: Okay, so you have a musher mixed with a hunting type of dog?
Owner: yes.
Trainer: ok, what are these breeds bred to do?
Owner: well, half of the dog should be pulling and the other half run into the woods and hunt.
Trainer: Yes. And your problem was?
Owner: it pulls on the leash and runs after wildlife.
Trainer: yeah, it appears that you have a dog meant for pulling and hunting.
Owner: Yes, that's correct. Can you train it out of the dog?
Trainer: Do you have any interests or hobbies?
Owner: Sure I do. I like to paint and watch movies.
Trainer: Can you consider quitting those hobbies?
Owner: No, I don't think I can. But what does this have to do with dog training?
Trainer: Would you consider doing something else that gives you the same pleasure you get from painting and watching movies?
Owner: I mean, sure I can do other things but it's not as fun.
Trainer: Ok. And what can you offer a musher that is more fun than pulling and a hunting dog that is more fun than hunting?
The dog owner is silent for a while.
Owner: That's a good question. I don't know.
Trainer: Neither do I.
Owner: But he's awfully cute!
Trainer: Yes, I understand that.
Owner: He sheds a lot too. My husband goes crazy about all the fur everywhere.
Trainer: Mmm, that's something you have to deal with.
Owner: Yes, there were even hairs in the stew last night.
Trainer: Yeah that's part of owning a husky.
Owner: But you know what? I met a husky when I was 12. It was so beautiful. Ever since I've always wanted one.
Trainer: Too bad you didn't meet a PlayStation instead.
Owner laughs: Alright, I think I'm starting to understand that it's not the dog that has problems but me.
Trainer: It's not really a "problem". What you are saying is very common. People with guarding dogs get angry when their dog growls at strangers. People with sighthounds get frustrated when their dog comes home with a baby rabbit. People often know too little when they get a dog.
Owner: Thanks for the chat. I have learned a lot in 10 minutes.
Trainer: Good luck in the future. There's a lot we can do to help you in your training with the dog. But the dog will always have a need and joy to pull and hunt.
Owner: yes, I can understand that now."
Author unknown.
Now we aren't saying that dog behaviour can't be trained, but certain behaviours are instinctual. 
Responsible owners research their breed before choosing a dog that will best fit their lifestyle. 
And responsible breeders know that purpose-bred dogs are predictable which helps owners make the right choice for their family. 

Raising a service dog is helping instill traits specifically attuned to the needs of an individual


By now we’ve probably all seen service dogs in action.  Service Dogs help sight-challenged people navigate the ins and outs of daily life.  They offer comfort to returning service people.  They are even able to alert some individuals with chronic conditions such as diabetes when they might be in danger and need medicine.  But training a dog from puppy to lifesaving companion isn’t an easy task.  It’s unlike raising a pet that will be part of a family; Raising a service dog is helping instill the necessary traits and ethic to be a hardworking animal that is specifically attuned to the needs of an individual.  If you’ve ever thought about becoming a service animal trainer, or are interested in what service animals can help with, use this graphic to learn more.

TrainingService Dogs: From Puppy To Invaluable Partner,  written by Keagen "Kea" Grace. 


Dog parks are supposed to be fun — but often they’re not. Here’s what dog owners can do to fix that problem.     By: Jaymi Heimbuch
Dog parks. They’re a play heaven for our furry friends, right? Well, not really. Dog parks are one of those places that seem like a brilliant idea — and would be, if we all knew how to behave. But we don’t.

As many a trainer has told me, you can potentially ruin your dog by taking her to dog parks. A single situation gone wrong can escalate into an attack or fight, which can cause life-long reactivity or fear aggression in your dog. I’ve even talked to people whose dogs have had serious injuries (and one lost a leg) because what seemed like play escalated into an attack — something that probably could have been avoided if everyone involved had been reading the body language of the dog and paying attention to some simple rules of behavior. The bummer reality is that dog parks are not the playground most people think they are. But they can be. Here are the most common things people do wrong (so you can avoid these mistakes), and five ways you can make dog parks a safe and fun environment for all involved.

First, let’s look at what many dog owners do wrong.

1. Not picking up after a dog.
Let’s start with something simple like sanitation. First, it’s simply good manners to scoop up after your dog does her business. It’s gross to walk into a park that has poo everywhere and worse, it’s really bad for your dog. There are a lot of diseases and parasites living in dog waste that other dogs can contract when they touch, roll in, or eat it. Unpleasant on all counts. So let’s avoid the spread of disease and follow this simple rule of etiquette. You also earn bonus points for bringing extra poop bags for other owners.

2. Not exercising a dog before taking her into a park.
This might sound counterintuitive. I mean, we go to dog parks to exercise our dogs, right? Wrong. Dog parks are a supplement to a dog’s daily activity, not the sole source of exercise or socialization. A dog that has been inside or alone for hours has pent-up energy, and bringing her into an extremely stimulating environment such as a park with other dogs is like holding a match really close to a stick of dynamite and hoping the fuse doesn’t catch fire. Your dog might mean well but be overly exuberant with a dog that doesn’t appreciate it (resulting in a fight). Or, your dog might mean well but be so excited about running around that other dogs start to chase her and she suddenly turns into the prey object for other dogs (resulting in a fight). See where I’m going with this? Well-behaved dogs are exercised dogs. So get those zoomies out of your dog before you bring her into a park situation.

3. Bringing dogs with rude greeting skills.
We’ve all experienced it: meeting a person who stands way too close when we don’t even know them. Meeting someone who is really loud and tells obnoxious jokes within the first 30 seconds of an introduction. Meeting someone who shakes your hand for too long until it’s kind of creepy and awkward. We glare at them, chalk them up to being rude, and count the seconds until we can escape.

It’s like this for dogs too. Introductions are important and make a difference in how dogs will get along. Allowing your dog to go charging up to a dog that has just entered the park is rude. The new dog is possibly on edge, examining its environment and level of safety, so your dog running full speed to that new dog could be asking for an instant fight. Allowing your dog to mount another dog in a dominance display is also rude. Allowing your dog to continue sniffing another dog that is clearly uncomfortable with being sniffed is, again, rude. It’s up to us humans to help dogs make polite introductions to each other. Knowing what’s polite in the dog world and what isn’t, and knowing how to help your dog be a polite pooch is essential to having positive experiences at a dog park.

dog on a leash

4. Leaving prong collars and harnesses on dogs while playing.
Though it may seem logical to leave a prong collar, choke chain, gentle leader or harness on a dog — after all, that’s where you attach the leash, right? — it’s a bad idea. The neck and shoulders are where most dogs aim their nips and nibbles during play. Having metal contraptions where another dog is roughly shoving its mouth is inviting broken teeth, broken jaws, broken paws and legs, and potentially a huge dog fight if another panicked dog can’t detach itself from your dog’s neck. Never leave on special training devices while in dog parks. A simple nylon or leather collar that can be quickly removed is safe. (I’d add never use prong collars or choke chains in the first place but, that’s another article.)

5. Keeping dogs on leashes inside an off-leash area.
First, dogs on any sort of leash in an off-leash dog park is a bad idea. New owners often feel more secure keeping their dog on a leash, thinking that it’ll be easier to control a dog whose quirks and reactions they haven’t quite learned yet. However, a dog on a leash is essentially a tripping hazard, especially if the leashed dog begins to play. A firm tug on a wrapped up lead could mean, if not a broken leg, a panicked dog whose first experience of a dog park is one of fear and anxiety. In addition, dogs on leash can feel more insecure because they know they can’t escape if they need to, so they can actually trigger fights that might not otherwise have happened. Second, people who use retractable leashes in dog parks are really asking for it. If extended, other dogs running loose can run straight into that thin cord and get injured. Or the dog attached might decide to take off after another dog, thinking she has all the freedom in the world until she hits the end of the cord and is snapped back by the neck. Retractable leads are a terrible idea in the first place, but in a dog park, they’re downright dangerous.

6. Bringing a female in heat or pregnant female.
I don’t think I need to go into detail on this one. It happens — even though it never, ever should. If you want to see all hell break loose among a group of dogs, then watch when a dog in heat is brought into the mix.

7. Bringing puppies less than 12 weeks old or dogs with incomplete vaccinations.
There are so many diseases and parasites in a dog park to begin with — it just makes you shudder. Older puppies and adult dogs who have been immunized can mostly handle the grossness, and will maybe only pick up Giardia or worms which, as an adult with a strong immune system, they can easily survive with treatment. However for puppies that haven’t completed their vaccinations, not only are they liable to pick up anything from parvo to distemper, they could pick up something like Giardia or worms that their tiny bodies have a hard time handling. Puppies under 12 weeks or that haven’t been fully immunized against common diseases need to be kept well away from dog parks.

big and small dogs
8. Small dogs in the same play area as large dogs.

Some dog parks don’t have separate play areas, and if that’s the case where you are, be careful about bringing your small dog to such a park. Small dogs can often be viewed as prey by large dogs. It is not unreasonable for a Rottweiler to look at a Yorkshire terrier like it’s a squirrel. The squeaking barks and speedy movements of a panicked small dog can also be enough to switch on the prey drive in a large dog and disaster happens. I’ve watched it happen on multiple occasions — it never ends well, and it sometimes ends with serious damage done to the small dog, and with the large dog being called “vicious” for simply being a normal dog that was overly stimulated. If you bring a small dog to a park where large dogs are playing, it’s on you if something happens to that tiny pooch. Is it worth the risk? Probably not.

9. Picking up and carrying a small dog.
This brings us to another common mistake owners of small dogs make. It is extremely understandable to want to pick up your small dog if a situation starts to escalate. It’s so innate in us, it’s nearly impossible to fight that instinct. We pick stuff up to protect it. But from a dog’s point of view, when things go upwards quickly it’s because that thing is fleeing, which means “chase!” The act of small dogs being lifted up triggers a treeing instinct in many dogs, moving them right into prey drive and exciting them into jumping on you to get at the small dog. In a dog park, where all dogs are extra stimulated and excited, picking up a small, panicked dog could be enough to get you knocked over or possibly even bitten.

10. Bringing in a dog that lacks recall skills.
The recall is about more than having your dog come when called. It’s also about having a dog that is constantly attuned to you and ready to obey no matter what, even in the midst of a game of chase. The recall is about being able to disengage your dog from an activity that is escalating and having her return to you until tempers calm down. Recall skills are important not just for your dog’s safety, but for the safety of every dog she is interacting with. No recall skills, no dog park.

11. Allowing dogs to bully other dogs.
You might think it’s cute when your dog is bouncing all over another dog, but it’s not. Learn when play gestures are cute and engaging — and socially appropriate to dogs — and when they’re just flat out obnoxious and rude. A play bow from a little distance away is cute. A tag-and-run request for play is cute. But constantly nipping at another dog’s neck and pouncing him to try to get a game of wrestle going is obnoxious. Especially when the dog on the receiving end isn’t comfortable with it. If your dog is getting too rough or rude with a dog that is not liking it, it’s time to call your dog over and have her leave that dog alone. If you don’t, you’re asking for a fight between the dogs or getting yelled at by the owner of the poor dog being bullied.

this is how dogs work it out for themselves

12. Letting the dogs ‘work it out.’
Yeah, that just doesn’t work. So many people at dog parks think that if they leave the dogs alone, they’ll get through whatever social drama is happening. Dogs can be good at working things out, but dogs meeting for the first time in a stimulating environment are not on the best path to being able to work out differences. If a dog is being picked on, or there are signs of dislike between two dogs, it’s up to the humans to intervene and keep everyone mellow and happy. A perfect example of this is when a dog tries to mount another dog in a dominance display and it is passed off as “they’re figuring out the chain of command.” Nope, that dog is just being plain old rude — by both human and dog standards. If your dog needs to mount other dogs to figure out where he sits on the totem pole, then dog parks are not the best place for your dog and some training is in order. If there’s another dog at the park doing this to your dog, separate the dogs and leave the park. Being around a dog like that is not worth the potential trouble. Being around owners who think dogs should be left alone to “work it out” is also not worth it.

13. Bringing dogs that have resource-guarding problems.
Dogs who don’t like to share toys, or who like to steal toys and hoard them, are not going to have fun in a dog park. Not only that, but that kind of dog is also a potential danger to other dogs that want to play with toys and don’t take her cues to back off. This goes beyond toys, too. Dog treats are common in dog parks and a resource-guarding dog who picks up the scent will guard that food resource against other dogs with varying levels of aggressiveness (even if the treats are still in the human’s pocket!) Some dogs take resource guarding to a new level by guarding the dog they’re playing with, or even their own human. If your dog has any issues with resource guarding, the dog park is not a safe place to play.

14. Chatting with other humans rather than supervising the dogs.
A person’s number one priority at a dog park is a dog, not a conversation with other humans. Think of it like taking children to a playground, putting them on the jungle gym with other kids, and then turning your back on them to chat with other parents. That’s frowned upon, right? You have no idea if arguing is breaking out, if someone is throwing sand, or if a kid is about to take a 10-foot plunge from the monkey bars. Same with dogs. Too many people feel they can let loose their dog in a fenced park and then just have a nice chat with other dog owners. But if you’re busy chatting, you’re not watching. Dog parks are for dogs; coffee shops are for chit chat.

15. Spending more time looking at a smartphone screen than at the dogs.
In the same way that chatting with other humans should not take priority over supervising dogs, a smartphone should not become a distraction either. Sadly, I’ve seen people enter the dog park and stare at their phones the whole time while their dog is wreaking havoc in the park or, even more sad, the dog just stands there staring at the cellphone-absorbed human, wondering if they’re ever going to play. Dogs know when you’re mentally disengaged and they can often take advantage of that — breaking rules because they know they can. Don’t make other dog owners have to manage your dog for you because you’re texting or tweeting or posting a picture of your cute dog to Instagram. Think of it like texting and driving: it can wait.



I think I will change how I refer to myself! I am no longer a breeder...

I am a Preservation breeder and I am helping with maintaining a part of our National Heritage through our dogs.

Please read the post by Matt Townsend who has inspired me with his very informative and poignant comments. Thank you for this and other inspiring comments you have made in discussions on Facebook.

Matt Townsend  13 July
Soapbox Time. All dogs come from breeders. Dogs don't come from shelters, pet adoption websites, newspaper ads, or surprised next-door neighbors. Puppies arrive in this world because a person planned - or didn't plan - for the production/prevention of a litter of puppies. The amount of planning and responsibility varies wildly, but a human is behind every puppy that comes into the world. Please think about it.

Fewer than 1 in 5 puppies in America is born under circumstances where the breeder planned for the pregnancy, whelped and raised the puppies, registered them, placed them in responsible homes, and ultimately took responsibility for their welfare. A fraction of these purebred puppies are born to preservation breeders - breeders committed to preserving and improving the qualities of a breed they love.

Purebred dogs are not just a luxury. They are National Heritage. When I see an American Foxhound, I think of president George Washington and his creation of the breed; one of this dog's ancestors sat at George Washington's feet! When I see an Akita, I think of the Japanese values and traditions that have led to the development of such a magnificent dog. How incredibly American is the ingenuity behind the Boston Terrier?  Every breed is the living embodiment of a national story of people, times, culture, and values. Losing a breed is a tragic loss.

Preservation breeders look after their puppies for life. If you walk into a shelter, finding a puppy from one is rarer than hens' teeth. Preservation breeders take puppies back if they are not wanted because they were and are loved by the people who put so much effort into their creation.

The purebred dogs that are there - often "pitbulls" and "Chihuahuas" - are commonly misidentified and carelessly brought into the world. Many preservation breeders and their breeds are part of Rescue organizations which make sure dogs of their breed don't go through shelter programs in the event they need to be re-homed.

Purebred dogs, the AKC, and preservation breeders are highly visible and there is a horrible problem with unwanted dogs being euthanized and mistreated. The problem, however, is not caused by breeders who passionately work to preserve breed history, national heritage, and a 15,000 year-old craft. Neither is the problem with clubs and individuals committed to purebred dogs. The problem is with the breeders you don't see who fail to take even a modicum of responsibility for their role in bringing puppies into the world.

It's easy to put a spotlight on the AKC and purebred dog breeders. They are someone we can point to and blame for a problem that lies much deeper in our society and the vindication can feel so good when we blame them. Yes, purebred dogs have some bad actors that need to be addressed. However, the vast, vast majority of dogs born in the United States come from individuals that take almost no responsibility for what they have done as a breeder. I wish we would make efforts to hold them to account for the horror of mass euthanasia of man's best friend.

In the meantime, individuals like you and me can take action. Encourage friends and family not to produce puppies if they don't have a plan that commits to their future well-being. Support rescues and low-cost spay & neuter clinics. Learn and share the magnificent story and national heritage of the breed you love! Volunteer at your local animal shelter. Educate others about responsible dog ownership. Join your local dog club. If everyone takes some small actions, we can make the world a much better place for our four-legged partners in life. Thank you.

About us
Where we came from: Raising Border Collies of exquisite 
breeding from champion working lines. 
Preservation Breeding to maintain a part of our 
National Heritage through our dogs.
Where we are going: Border Collie Female from our dedicaed lines, 
bred to a Miniature Poodle for the perfect pet for todays active family.
Our companion project: Cavalier King Charles Spaniel puppies from dedicated lines for 
Preservation Breeding to maintain a part of our National Heritage though our dogs.
Contact us
Wall 2 Wall Border Collies & Mini BorDoodles
Box 184
250 Gimby Street
Cartwright Manitoba R0K 0L0
Wall 2 Wall Mini BorDoodles
Collin Cavalier King Charles Spaniels
Lorna Wall
250 Gimby Street  Box 184
Cartwright, Manitoba,
Canada R0K 0L0 

Site Powered By
eDirectHost Website Builder